With more than 801,000 acres, this is a big park. All that land provides a wide array of available activities in Big Bend National Park. An eager visitor with desire and proper preparation can easily kill a week or two here, perhaps even a winter or two.
Below are some of Park Junkie’s favorite activities in Big Bend.
There are other ways to access the Big Bend backcountry, but no method can provide as intimate an experience as a simple hike into the Texas wilderness. With nearly 200 miles of trail transversing incredible mountain, river and desert landscapes, this park is a hiker’s paradise.
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Big Bend’s trails range from the classic roadside overlook, to soul crushing treks across dry desert lands which lend a small morsel of glory upon exhausted completion. Preparation for a couple of these hikes include plenty of water, sunscreen and a fair amount of masochism.
Chisos Mountain Trails
The greatest network of trails in the park exist in the Chisos Mountains. These routes lead through the highest areas in this part of Texas, which stand a world apart from the surrounding lowlands of the Chihuahuan Desert. The pinnacle of these mountains rises to 7,825′ atop the sheer summit of Emory Peak.
Numerous trails wind across sections of the Chihuahuan Desert in Big Bend. These hikes can be challenging, and the added complication of extreme heat can dial the difficulty meter up quickly. Take plenty of water, and don’t overestimate your group’s ability.
There’s nothing better than cruising along on a trail that leads to water when you’re in the desert. Big Bend has three canyon areas, all of which hold an incredible charm… and water. A nice swim can quickly revive a hiker’s spirits, and often makes the time on the trail worth the effort. Don’t cross the river though… that would be illegal.
The isolated wilderness, rugged landscape and incredible beauty of Big Bend combine with low visitor numbers to make this park a backpacker’s dream getaway. The only real limit here is water, as there usually isn’t any in the park’s arid backcountry. Most backpackers elect to stash water at a number of points along their chosen route in order to make many treks possible.
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Trails lead into all regions of the park, but the most popular area for backpacking is in the Chisos Mountains, which is usually the park’s most hospitable area. Proper planning and a backcountry permit allows adventurous souls to experience night skies and unforgettable scenery in the Big Bend backcountry.
While Big Bend National Park currently prohibits any off-road biking, there are more than 250 miles of roadway in the park, which provide a lot of cycling opportunities. Road cyclists will obviously find their way along the paved roads without too many questions, but mountain bikers will find plenty of options as well, thanks to the park’s primitive road system.
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Numerous options exist that can take advantage of a vehicular shuttle. No commercial shuttle services are provided in the park, but individuals can arrange their own shuttles to create a more enjoyable experience on a number of routes.
The River Road and the Black Gap Road look intriguing, and a well-prepared bike camper can spend quite a bit of time roaming around the park’s more inaccessible routes with little concern of becoming stuck.
When it comes to legit mountain biking however, the place to be is in nearby Big Bend State Park, which offers a complete system of single-track trails. The riding here is rough and rugged, as the terrain is super rocky on most of the trails, but the competent cyclist can rage along on these trails with a smile, as he or she tears through the desert terrain with little concern for traffic or speed limits.
For those who would rather drive into the backcountry of a national park, Big Bend should be on your list of destinations. This park offers more than 150 miles of primitive, unpaved backcountry routes that allow those with a properly outfitted rig a unique opportunity to experience the wilderness of the Chihuahuan Desert while rocking out to Led Zeppelin in the comfort of their vehicle.
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While some of these routes may appear suitable for standard vehicular travel, most are not. Roads that seem suitable can quickly become unsuitable during or after a storm, so be aware of surrounding climatic conditions at all times. This park is isolated and massive. A stranded vehicle in the Big Bend backcountry can quickly lead to a life-threatening disaster for those who are unprepared.
The park recommends high-clearance 4×4 vehicles on primitive roads. Such vehicles should be equipped with a minimum of 8 inches of ground clearance from the lowest point of the vehicle, good tires, a good spare, an adequate jack, and plenty of food and water. In addition to these items, backcountry motorists should always have the ability to spend the night if necessary, so a warm sleeping bag and clothing are recommended as well.
Backcountry motorists will want to check out the park’s Backcountry Road Safety List before leaving the pavement.
There are four main primitive roads in Big Bend, and all but one are located in the park’s southern region.
River Road
The 51-mile River Road provides a route that runs along the northern banks of the Rio Grande. The road never actually leads along the river, but above the river, through the Chihuahuan Desert. River views are possible, but not all that common. Numerous campsites and a few spur roads offer better access to the river itself.
This route runs from just north of Rio Grande Village, on the park’s southeastern corner, to just north of Castolon, on the park’s southwestern corner. The western section of the road is generally rougher than the eastern side, and the road can become impassable after storms, as it winds through many washes along its route.
Numerous opportunities exist for camping along this route. Most campsites are extremely isolated and offer excellent privacy, along with incredible views.
The Glenn Springs Road offers access to a couple of remote trailheads along the eastern region of the Chisos Mountains, while connecting the Panther Junction area to the River Road.
While the road initially appears tame, it becomes rougher as it progresses southward toward Glenn Springs. Numerous campsites exist along the route, including a brilliant little site at Glenn Springs itself. This campsite has a relatively rugged entrance, so without a proper vehicle, this site is not recommended.
This is the most challenging road in the park. While true Moab 4×4 enthusiasts may scoff at its difficulty, it does present a few sections that will certainly impede the progress of average to even skilled drivers. A mistake in one of these areas can leave a vehicle high-centered or with a punctured oil pan… not what you’ll want.
Many rangers want this road taken off the maps, and some even want it closed to vehicular travel all together. So in an effort to keep it open to future motorists, if you’re not prepared for it, don’t try it. Pull the ol’ mountain bike off the back of your rig, and just ride it. Then, after a recon, make your decision of whether or not to proceed with your vehicle.
This road runs about 8.5 miles, connecting Glenn Springs to the River Road, at a junction near the Mariscal Mine Historic District. The scenery on the road is fabulous, and the journey through Black Gap, a small black rock passage that appears to have been dug out to accommodate cross-country travel in a past era, is likely the highlight of the drive for most.
The Old Ore Road runs loosely along the park’s eastern boundary with the Sierra del Carmen Mountains. The route is rugged, but lends access to a bevy of geologic wonders along its 26 mile course.
Originally a thruway for miner transporting iron ore from mines to the railway station at Marathon, this road roughly follows an old pack mule path from the 1800s. Numerous camps exists along the Old Ore Road, including a camp at Ernst Tinaja, which provides access to an area interesting geologic exposure.
A “tinaja” is a ephemeral pool of water, or a seasonal pool that appears to due to rains or snowfall, only to dry up quickly as climatic conditions change.
Some days, I just wake up and don’t want to do anything except drive. When that is the case, I either leave town for six months, or I seek out a scenic drive that allows my mind to unwind as the miles pass under my floorboard.
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Such drives exist in Big Bend, in fact, more than 100 miles of pavement can take you from one end of the park to the other. They can take you up into the mountains, across the desert or even down to the river. Its your choice, you’re behind the wheel.
One of the more unique ways to unwind in a desert park like Big Bend is to take a trip on a desert river. The Rio Grande runs the southern boundary of the park for 118 miles, separating the US from Mexico.
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Along this route, numerous canyons appear that lend an exciting atmosphere for a float trip or a paddle. There are a few different options in Big Bend that can accommodate a variety of skill levels, as well as time constraints.
Make sure and read the Big Bend National Park River Regulations before you arrive at the park. Some are a bit strange, such as the requirement that you carry an extra paddle… and extra pdf.
Paddling Boquillas Canyon
One of the more relaxing river trips in Big Bend is a journey through Boquillas Canyon, at the park’s southeastern edge. The relatively straight-forward Class II challenges along this 35-mile route are well-suited for boaters who may not be ready for some of the larger rapids upstream.
Most boaters will do this trip in 3 or 4 days, putting in at Rio Grande Village and taking out just downstream of La Linda at Heath Canyon. Boaters taking out at Heath Canyon Ranch should call ahead to authorize take-out, as the ranch is private property.
Located at the furthest southern point in the park, this is the most remote of Big Bend’s canyons on the Rio Grande. Access to the area requires a trip on River Road, which means you’ll likely need a sturdy, high-clearance 4×4 to get out here.
The canyon is incredibly scenic, with limestone cliffs rising more than 1,400 feet above the Tight Squeeze Rapids, which range in the Class II or III range, depending on water levels.
While a shuttle vehicle is probably a desirable luxury, there is a hiking option that enables a return to your vehicle via the trail, as the Cross Canyon Trail and the Mariscal Canyon Trail connect to offer an overland route between the put in at Talley, and the take out at Solis.
This canyon’s 1,500 foot walls combine with easy access from the Santa Elena Canyon Trailhead to make this the most popular river-based trip in the park.
Many paddlers elect to simply put in at Santa Elena, paddle upstream for a few miles, turn around and enjoy the relaxing trip back down the canyon. This is known in river speak as a “boomerang trip”. While this option can be completed with a free river permit from the Castolon Visitor Center, professional guides can be hired to escort you along the way.
Other options include a longer, 21-mile downstream trip from Lajitas to Santa Elena, which can be done as a day trip during times when the water flow is in the 1,000 cfs range, or a 2 day trip if the water levels are lower. These levels depend on release levels upstream, so be sure to check with NPS officials to determine the current CFS. You’ll need a permit anyway, so you’ll be talking to them anyway.
Numerous river rafting companies in Terlingua/Study Butte offer commercial trips on the river, so if you feel unsure about setting out on your own, just grab a spot on one of their trips and toss the ol’ concerns overboard.
All river trips inside Big Bend National Park require a permit, which can be acquired at any visitor center. Backcountry permits are required for all overnight trips.
Fishing in Big Bend
It’s true, most avid fishermen do not have Big Bend National Park at the top of their bucket list of exotic destinations. Nor should they… I didn’t catch a damn thing in the Rio Grande with my fly rod… but it sure was a pretty sight casting out with the cliffs of Santa Elena Canyon behind me…
Big Bend has more documented bird species sightings that any other national park. This means that if you’re into watching our winged brethren sail about the skies, you’ll definitely want to head on out to West Texas sooner rather than later.
The rangers at Big Bend provide a number of interesting activities that offer an educated insight into the natural habitat of this unique park. Don’t miss the opportunity to pick up a few fascinating bits of information about the park on your next visit.
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YOU CAN DIE. Activities pursued within National Park boundaries hold inherent dangers. You are solely responsible for your safety in the outdoors. Park Junkie accepts no responsibility for actions that result in inconveniences, injury or death.
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