The vast majority of folks who will be visiting Big Bend will be arriving from the north, as there is no vehicular passage from Mexico into the park.

Those coming from the northwest will take Texas Hwy 118 south from Alpine for about 80 miles to reach the small towns of Terlingua & Study Butte at the park’s west entrance. From the northeast, drivers can turn south in Marathon on Texas Hwy 385, which runs for 40 miles to the park’s north entrance at Persimmon Gap. From the west, Hwy 170 leads from Presidio to Lajitas, then to Study Butte.

No matter which direction of travel you choose, be sure and stock up on gas and supplies before you get to Big Bend. While there are supplies available in Study Butte and Terlingua, the economically savvy traveler will choose to shop in a more affordable local.

Fuel is available in Study Butte, as well as Panther Junction in the park, but once again, prices are significantly higher than in the outside world.

You may also access the park with a Military Pass, Annual 4th Grade Pass, a Senior Pass, an Access Pass or a Volunteer Pass.

These passes can be obtained at the gate to most national park units and can also be ordered online at the link below.

If this idea doesn’t turn you on, prepare to spend $30 to enter the park. It should be stated, that park junkie writes fortune cookies on his days off, and he predicts this fee will certainly increase, much like postal rates and taxes…

Park Passes

NPS – Big Bend – Entrance Fee

The main visitor center is at Panther Junction. Guests can acquire information here, as well as obtain backcountry and river use permits. The park film is shown here every 30 minutes from 9:30 AM to 4:00 PM. There is a bookstore and exhibits, as well as the service station, which provides gas, diesel and a few basic grocery items, such as bread and beer. Restrooms and water are available.

The Chisos Basin Visitor Center is located inside the caldera of the Chisos Mountains. Backcountry and river permits are issued here. A small village storm is located beside the visitor center. Restrooms and water are available.

The Rio Grande Village Visitor Center is open seasonally from November 5 through April. It is located in the eastern section of the park, near the Rio Grande River. Exhibits provide information regarding the riparian region that exists along this famous waterway and several life-size bronze sculptures depict local wildlife. River permits can be acquired here and restrooms and water are available nearby.

If you’re entering from Marathon on Hwy 385, the Persimmon Gap Visitor Center will be your first opportunity to gain information in the park. This visitor center is also open seasonally from November 5 through April 30 and provides a small theater, a bookstore, and restrooms. River permits can be acquired here.

On the western corner of the park, near Santa Elena Canyon, guests will find the small Castolon Visitor Center, which exists in a small historic village that looks out toward the Rio Grand Valley to the south. This place is staffed seasonally November 13 through April 30 and can provide day use river and fishing permits. There is a small bookstore, restrooms and a small store with basic items next door.

Most folks will be driving some form of vehicle, and this provides easy passage on more than 100 miles of the park’s paved roads. However, the more than 150 miles of dirt roads that lead into the park’s hinterlands will pose a quite a challenge for the average passenger car and should usually be left to the 4×4 crowd.

Paved Roads in Big Bend

The 30-mile Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive leads through a vast collection of Big Bend’s most jagged lowland terrain, while the Chisos Basin Drive ushers motorists into what may appear to be a castle in the sky, high in the Chisos Mountains.

NPS – Big Bend – Paved Roads

Primitive Roads in Big Bend

Of the 150 miles of dirt roads, about 45 miles are considered “improved dirt roads”. These are considered safe for the average vehicle, but the remaining 100+ miles of “backcountry dirt roads” are quite primitive and will usually require a high-clearance vehicle with 4×4 capability.

The roads which are labeled “unmaintained” such as the Black Gap Road, are completely raw. Motorists can proceed here at their own risk. No matter which backcountry road you choose, it is best to check with a ranger at the visitor center to gauge current road conditions and of course, know the limits of your vehicle.

The 50-mile unpaved River Road runs roughly along the northern shore of the Rio Grande from Castalon to Rio Grande Village. Numerous campgrounds are located along the route, and camping on the banks above the river is a delightful experience. This is the most remote area of the park and those heading into this region should definitely be prepared for a rugged adventure.

One of the more well-traveled dirt roads in the park leads to the Hot Springs Historic District, near Rio Grande Village. This two mile one-way drive leads to a trailhead where guests can hike a half mile to an old hot spring bathhouse, the ruins of which sits right on the banks of the Rio. Enjoy a soak in these springs, then make your way up to the historic district and learn about the old glory days of this old mining area.

The Old Ore Road is a rugged 26 mile one-way road that leads along the park’s eastern edge. It follows an old mule and pack train route that runs from Rio Grand Village to the Dagger Flat Road, which is a spur road from Hwy 385. This route also offers backcountry campsites that provide an escape from the heavily visited developed campgrounds.

The Dagger Flat Auto Trail is a seven mile one-way “improved” road which leads through a variety of interesting Chihuahuan Desert plantlife. The road is generally well conditioned and provides a slow pace from which to observe the bizarre plants of this desert locale. See the NPS Auto Tour Guide to Dagger Flats for a thorough introduction to the area’s flora.

The Glenn Springs Road is often used by average motorists to access several backcountry campsites, as well as the Juniper Canyon and Pine Canyon trails. This section of road is usually in good condition, but heavy rains can wreak havoc on the washes that cross the road and leave them impassable for common autos.

The Grapevine Hills are an interesting area to explore, and the 1 mile one-way drive to the Balanced Rock should not deter the average visitor from checking this area off their list. Numerous massive piles of rock lie exposed at the end of the well-maintained road.

The western section of the park is home to the Old Maverick Road, which runs from Maverick Junction, at the western gate, south to Santa Elena Canyon. There are a limited number of campsites along this road, most of which lie near the road’s southern terminus. This road is considered “improved” but can become troublesome after a heavy rain.

Most folk find that November through April is the best time to head for west Texas. Temperatures often find their way past the 80°F mark in the dead of winter, so if you want summer in January, this may be your place.

Keep in mind however, that the daily temperature swings are quite drastic, and that 80°F daytime temp may sink below freezing during the long desert nights of winter. Days are longer here than up north, but only slightly. Most moisture falls during the summer, between June and September.

Also be aware that there are no guarantees when it comes to weather, and Big Bend can also see frigid temperatures that will leave you wondering why you left that fireplace back at your cozy cabin in Wisconsin. New Years Day in 2021 saw more than 2 feet of snow in the Chisos, along with temperatures that fell well below freezing…. so check the forecast before setting off to west Texas.

Developed Campgrounds

The park is home to four developed campgrounds that offer picnic tables, water and toilets. These sites allow reservations through our fine friends at Rec.gov, but hold some first-come, first-served sites as well.

The Chisos Basin Campground, located in the heart of the Chisos Mountains, provides 60 sites and one of the best views you’ll find in a campground. The surrounding mountains envelop campers in a volcanic caldera that is a world of its own from which sunsets are spectacular. There is running water and flush toilets, and each site is equipped with a picnic table. Group sites are available as well.

The western region of the park features the Cottonwood Campground, which is shaded by a nice grove of large Cottonwood trees that provide a welcome relief from that vivid Texas sun. The 24 sites in this quiet campground are located just down the road from Santa Elena Canyon and the Castolon Visitor Center and features grills and picnic tables in addition to bear boxes, potable water and pit toilets. Generators are not allowed, and there are no hook-ups. A single group site is available here.

The Rio Grande Village Campground has 100 sites, and is located a stone’s throw from the Rio Grande River. This campground offers a small camp store, in addition to prison showers and a laundromat. This campground can accommodate larger RVs, although no hook-ups are provided. Each site has a picnic table and a bear box. A group site is available here as well.

The Rio Grande Vilage RV Park is available for RVs only. Each site has full hook-ups, with water, sewage and electric. This campground is operated by the concessionaire that operates the Chisos Mountin Lodge.

Primitive Campsites

Big Bend is unique among parks in that it offers more than 70 primitive campsites in the desert backcountry that are accessible by vehicle. Many of these sites require a high-clearance 4×4 to access, but some are within the reach of the average SUV.

These sites require a backcountry permit. Sites along the River Road, Glenn Springs Road and the Old Maverick Road can only be obtained in person at either the Panther Junction or the Chisos Mountains Visitor Centers.

All other sites in the park require an online reservation at the ever-so-well-designed Rec.gov and cannot be reserved in person. Have fun with that… may I suggest a drink or two to relieve the headache that ensues from an hour or two spent navigating Rec.gov and its primitive road campsite reservation system…

Check with a ranger at the visitor to inquire as to road conditions and accessibility for your vehicle before your journey.

Sites are available all over the park, along nearly every primitive road. These sites offer nothing in the way of amenities aside from the standard bear box that is provided at each individual site. Ground fires are prohibited and most sites do not allow trailers.

The Lodge offers 72 rooms, which include the 5 Roosevelt Stone Cottages, two of which are private, and three of which are duplex. These classic structures were erected by the Civilian Conservation Corp, as part of the efforts to battle the Great Depression.

Aside from the Lodge, the only lodging options are located outside the park.

Other dining options in the park are limited to basic chip and salsa supplies at the small stores located throughout the park. These stores can be found in Castolon, the Chisos Basin, Panther Junction and at Rio Grande Village. Check out the NPS Goods & Services Page for more information about what is available in the park.